Neil wrote two days ago:
“I was wondering;…. What the 2 panels … would look like if they were slip matched?? What do you think in comparison to the match you’re showing us????”
Part of my reply read: “…This is a great suggestion, and a terrific opportunity to share with the readers the differences it *can* make to try different things…”
In the photo below I have placed side-by-side a new set of spalted maple boards I resawed today, to obtain 1/8-inch thick veneers. I photographed the pair immediately after finishing the resawing, so they still have some blade tooth marks. For resawing I selected a new board that showed strong “ink lines” demarcating the spalted areas; the original boards I showed earlier would not have produced the results you see below.
The photo shows the striking difference that results when the boards are slip matched (Option 2), vs. the more traditional book match(1). The following are immediately apparent:
- The book matched pair has a nice balance and feel to it. This is the pattern that results when we resaw a board, keeping the resawn boards in sequence and then we open these two boards like the page of a book; growth rings, spalting pattern, etc., form symmetrical patters about the contact edge.
- The slip matched pair results in a panel that could show tension or imbalance, in sharp contrast to the book matched pair. This pattern is created by slipping, in sequence, successive pieces of the resawn veneers; the veneers are not turned over as they are slipped over each other. In the repeating figure that results, the grain pattern does not match up at the joints.
- The book match option may work better in the case where symmetry is paramount. On the other hand, when finished, each veneer may have different light reflection.
- One advantage of using the slip match option is that the finish will have a uniform color, because the exposed faces have similar light reflection.
I trust this will help you in selecting a matching option when working with resawn veneers. I would like to hear your opinion on these options, any advantages or disadvantages you experience as your work with these matching options, and how you are likely to use each one.
Edit to add: Now, to answer Neil’s question.
Neil: I really like the slip match pattern I get with these particular veneers; in fact, I will use this option on some projects. But, for my Krenov-inspired cabinet, at this stage I think I might stick with the book match option. What actually happens will depend more on the actual look of the doors on the carcase, and with the whole thing assembled and on the base. Who knows? I might even make two sets of doors, and a selection process based on viewing the real thing in person. With this type of cabinet I usually stay fluid until the last moment, while always keeping the target in mind.
Thanks, Neil, for suggesting that I evaluate and share the slip match option!
JET 708115K JWBS-14CS 14-Inch 1 Horsepower Woodworking Bandsaw with Graphite Guide Blocks, 115/230-Volt 1 Phase
Neil said:
Thanks……….very cool. Appreciate the extra work. Write up is super, we kinda forget about the light refraction.
My reply to this:
I think we all tend to forget, Neil. But it is critical, depending on what look we would like to get.
Neil also said:
I’m a commercial veneer user rarely resawing. I find that, with quarter sliced veneer, slip matching or a slip and turn works best, for grains and light refraction as you mentioned.
My comment: On the money, as I expect, Neil! It is amazing the difference this can make.
Neil continued:
With rotary sliced, or the other zillion types of slices, the book matching seems to win out as playing with grain patterns is just plain fun.
I say: So much fun, we should have to *pay* to do this, we enjoy it so much! Well, this might be a little extreme…
Neil continued:
Hey Al, I’m with you on the book match here, SO…..send off that slip matched pair to me and …………I’ll book match’em on my end.:)
Thanks, Neil. As Mark suggests, though, I will try slip matching the original boards. You will get a chance to see why I did not try it that way: The outer surfaces of the resawn panels are the original board’s surface, and the spalting pattern does not match as well on the inside surface to the outer surface.
Mark Mazzo said:
I’m not sure if the original veneer choices you had would be a better slip match. You should take a look to see what you think.
My reply to this: I will take another look at the original panels, Mark. I concentrated so much on the new veneers that I ran out of time last night.
Mark Mazzo also said: What are your plans for the veneer? Are you making solid panels or actually veneering to a substrate?
And I say: This one is also up in the air, Mark. I must explain: I don’t have a vacuum veneer press, but I will be experimenting to see how well I do using MDF and cauls, with the edges tapered ever so slightly to distribute the pressure evenly from the center to the edges. If this works, I will probably use the veneers I show in this post, glued to a plywood substrate. If this does not work well, then I will go back to the original plan: Use the original resawn solid hardwood panels as 1/4-inch panels in the frames.
Hey Al:
Thanks……….very cool. Appreciate the extra work. Write up is super, we kinda forget about the light refraction.
I’m a commercial veneer user rarely resawing. I find that with quarter sliced veneer slip matching or a slip and turn works best, for grains and light refraction as you mentioned. With rotary sliced, or the other zillion types of slices, the book matching seems to win out as playing with grain patterns is just plain fun.
Hey Al, I’m with you on the book match here, SO…..send off that slip matched pair to me and …………I’ll book match’em on my end.:)
Thanks Al………..Neil
Al,
Nice comparison on the panel options.
With this set of veneers I think I like the book match better (notwithstanding the possible differences in the look after finishing as you rightly pointed out).
I’m not sure if the original veneer choices you had would be a better slip match. You should take a look to see what you think.
What are your plans for the veneer? Are you making solid panels or actually veneering to a substrate?
–Mark
The Craftsman’s Path