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	<title>Comments on: Band saw adjustment - Question of the day</title>
	<atom:link href="http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2008/02/19/band-saw-adjustment-question-of-the-day/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2008/02/19/band-saw-adjustment-question-of-the-day/</link>
	<description>The woodworking video podcast and blog of Al Navas</description>
	<pubDate>Fri, 21 Nov 2008 11:44:34 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Al (Sandal Woods)</title>
		<link>http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2008/02/19/band-saw-adjustment-question-of-the-day/#comment-124</link>
		<dc:creator>Al (Sandal Woods)</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Feb 2008 14:43:20 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Thanks for your contribution, Mark!

You make a good point, in suggesting lowering the upper guides. My first thought was identical, but I see where he is coming from. He will be resawing at full height, and it made sense to leave the upper guides all the way up.

I hope Ralph will read this and follows your suggestion, though; I also would love to hear from him again, to let us know if this adjustment (partially or fully) solved his problem.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for your contribution, Mark!</p>
<p>You make a good point, in suggesting lowering the upper guides. My first thought was identical, but I see where he is coming from. He will be resawing at full height, and it made sense to leave the upper guides all the way up.</p>
<p>I hope Ralph will read this and follows your suggestion, though; I also would love to hear from him again, to let us know if this adjustment (partially or fully) solved his problem.</p>
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		<title>By: Mark Mazzo</title>
		<link>http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2008/02/19/band-saw-adjustment-question-of-the-day/#comment-123</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark Mazzo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Feb 2008 13:31:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2008/02/19/band-saw-adjustment-question-of-the-day/#comment-123</guid>
		<description>Hey Al,

I think you're on the right track with respect to tension potentially being the cause of the bowing (or curving) in the cut.  It may be worth noting that for the flutter technique, the blade guides need to be completely backed off before checking for flutter.

From the brief description that was given, I would also point out the he should lower the upper guides from the 12" down to just about 1/4" above the top of the work piece and that may also alleviate the issue that he is having.

With respect to drift of the cut, that could be the blade itself (a normal thing) or where the blade is riding on the wheels if they are crowned.  In any case, the fence can easily be adjusted to account for any drift in the blade and then the cuts should be straight and true.

--Mark
http://thecraftsmanspath.com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Al,</p>
<p>I think you&#8217;re on the right track with respect to tension potentially being the cause of the bowing (or curving) in the cut.  It may be worth noting that for the flutter technique, the blade guides need to be completely backed off before checking for flutter.</p>
<p>From the brief description that was given, I would also point out the he should lower the upper guides from the 12&#8243; down to just about 1/4&#8243; above the top of the work piece and that may also alleviate the issue that he is having.</p>
<p>With respect to drift of the cut, that could be the blade itself (a normal thing) or where the blade is riding on the wheels if they are crowned.  In any case, the fence can easily be adjusted to account for any drift in the blade and then the cuts should be straight and true.</p>
<p>&#8211;Mark<br />
<a href="http://thecraftsmanspath.com" rel="nofollow">http://thecraftsmanspath.com</a></p>
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