February 8, 2012

Setting up the vacuum veneering press

The VacuPress vacuum veneering press arrived yesterday; I had a chance to run a quick test, to make sure everything was working as expected. It was! The total time from unpacking, to making the 2′ X 4′ platen, to taking the photos below: 75 minutes.

Now the fun can start with the application of cherry and spalted maple veneers, to continue work with the Krenov-inspired cabinet:

1-vacuumpresssystem-2.png 1-vacuumpump-test.png

As you can see, the pump pulled 24.5 inches of mercury, which is great at our 1,150-foot elevation. It took 38 seconds to reach this vacuum level, using this 2′ X 4′ platen with the 4′ X 8′ bag shortened by simply moving the C-Clamp tubular clamp near the back of the platen. I am quite pleased!

Since I normally keep the shop around 60° to 62°F in the Winter, I will be using the heating blanket to preheat the bag contents overnight, to ensure that everything in the bag stays above 70°F during clamping – typically 12 hours. This will allow proper curing of the veneering adhesive (Unibond 800).

I will keep you posted on my veneer projects using this vacuum veneering system. In the meantime, today I am headed to the Open House being held by Metro Hardwoods, the newest supplier of hardwoods and exotics in the Kansas City area. I might take pictures, or even shoot some video to share with you.

Band saw adjustment in resawing: A follow-up

As a follow-up to Ralph’s band saw question in my previous post (also just below this one), I sent him the following e-mail:

“One more thing, Ralph: Don’t push too hard on the board you are resawing – let the blade do its thing. In other words, start really slowly, then increase the speed slowly. You can pretty much tell if you are going TOO fast… Speed of feed is most important if the tension is not set properly.”

Regardless, if the tension is not set properly, even pushing slowly and letting the blade “do its thing” still may not result in good resawing results. But, if the tension is really close to properly adjusted, resawing results might improve dramatically at the slower feed speeds.

Ralph responded to my e-mail as follows:

“Thanks Al… I also got similar recommendations from the Laguna people regarding improper tension. I pushed the blade in 12″ below where the blade leaves the wheel, and it shouldn’t go in more than 1/4″. I did and that’s about how far it goes. We’ll get it right. I’ll keep you posted.”

I wanted to post this update because the Laguna people mentioned something I had overlooked: Sometimes, but not always, measuring the amount of deflection of the blade gives some assurance that we are close to the proper blade tension. All we have to do is make certain we always measure at the same distance below the upper wheel – this could be, as Ralph was told, about half way below where the blade leaves the upper wheel. I don’t quote an exact figure, as this distance is a function of the size of the band saw. There is a caveat to the blade deflection test: Narrower blades may have to be over-tensioned to give only 1/4-inch deflection.

Band saw adjustment – Question of the day

This question came from Ralph. He wrote:

“Al, I read your comments regarding band saw adjustment but have something a little different. I just got a 2004 Laguna LT 18 and got the guides set per instructions, and the tension is per the scale on the saw, and I’m having problems with drift. I’m using 1″ carbon tipped resaw blade that came from Laguna. I’ve done a number of test cuts preparing to resaw some 12″ hard curly maple. But the blade runs to the right in a slight curve on the top of the test piece, but cuts straight on the bottom of the test piece. I’ve got the blade opened up all the way up, 12 inches. the piece I’m practicing on is about a 5″ thick piece of hard maple. What am I doing wrong. This is the first real band saw I’ve had so don’t really have any experience. Thanks for any advice.”

My reply was:

“Hi, Ralph. Thanks for writing to me about this issue – it CAN be somewhat difficult to resolve on your own, it is also frustrating, and it can get quite expensive if you are using expensive wood. I am wondering what you mean by the following: …maple. But the blade runs to the right in a slight curve on the top of the test piece, but cuts straight on the bottom of the test piece. I’ve got the blade opened up all the way up, 12 inches. the piece I’m practicing on is about a 5″ thick piece of hard maple… Do you mean that the cut surface on the test piece is slightly rounded, as opposed to flat? It sounds like the blade tension is the issue, if I read your statements properly. The tension adjustment scale on most band saws is WAY off. I find that I the flutter method is the best way to adjust the blade tension, as I explain in the write-up. BUT it is sometimes difficult to tell with such a wide blade when it flutters. How many teeth per inch (TPI) does the blade have? I would highly recommend using a blade with no more than 3 TPI. Also, you might want to try the following:

  1. Increase the tension by 1/4- to 1/2-turn increments, and do a test cut.
  2. You can do this on the same piece, by simply cutting a distance of a few inches each time.
  3. Then look at the surfaces you just cut, and select the one that gives you the best cut
  4. You will likely have to replace the blade – the stock blades that come with the machines are usually not the best, and are intended for “normal” cutting, nor for resawing wide boards.

Please let me know if any of these suggestions help you in any way.”

I have a request for any of you reading this: I have not heard from Ralph again. If I missed something about the Laguna 18, please leave a Comment, or drop me a note via e-mail. Thank you, friends!

. .Visit Rockler.com - Woodworking Superstore!

Page optimized by WP Minify WordPress Plugin