Search Results for: driftmaster+fence

The band saw problem has been solved

The guide post alignment problem with no-name European band saw has been solved. You will remember that Joe was having very real issues with the guide post every time he moved it up or down; he was completely unable to reposition the post without having to re-adjust the position of the guide bearings. This was a total pain in the behind.

Joe found the problem. Totally frustrated, he removed the entire guide column bracket, and disassembled it. While doing this he noticed a large glob of fused powder coating in some areas, which he chiseled away. BINGO! Hidden behind these globs of paint were the set screws that allow proper alignment of the guide column. He adjusted the set screws, and noticed that the column not only moved up and down very smoothly, but now the guide bearings stayed in place relative to the back edge of the blade!

Thank you, Joe, for letting us know how you solved this bothersome issue! I am sure that some readers of the blog will also be thankful, as they find they can also adjust their band saws a little better.

For those who wonder what the guide column bracket looks like, here is a photo — if you are having similar issues with your band saw, remove the box from the band saw, and take a look inside:

Guide column bracket in the no-name band saw.

This entire episode showed me how well we can work together across long distances, connected with the common interest of woodworking and using the Internet. I look forward to helping others, no matter where in the world you might be located.

In addition to solving the guide post alignment problems, Joe also found that the band saw table was not flat. So he commissioned a local machine shop to grind it perfectly flat:

Grinding the band saw table.

Finally, he tricked out the band saw by getting a Laguna DriftMaster fence, which he will use with a power feeder:

DriftMaster fence on the no-name band saw.

Joe reports flawless resaw cuts of the premium rosewood using his band saw. Congratulations, Joe! I look forward to the results using the power feeder on this band saw and 20-inch slabs of your premium wood.

Al Navas

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The Laguna DriftMaster fence is no longer available at October 2010 prices

Reviewing old posts on the blog, I realize I must reconcile current pricing on the Laguna Tools’ DriftMaster with an old, October 2010 Special price available last year.

In October 2010 I announced that Laguna Tools was conducting a promotional special on the DriftMaster fence system. That was a limited-time, special, and strictly promotional pricing. For a short time you can buy the DriftMaster for $325 – a new promotion, and $70 off retail prices! In addition, Rockler and Woodcraft now carry the DriftMaster fence system.

I hope this clears up any confusion.

Al Navas

The Laguna DriftMaster Fence.

Resawing on the band saw safely

I received several comments and a bunch of e-mail following my post on “First look at the tall resaw fence…” One reader commented “…I have to say it made me wince a bit. Have you considered using a push stick to make that operation safer?”

In my reply I mentioned I used a push stick, and highlighted the times on the video at which I pick up the push stick to ensure a safe cut. Currently, the online woodworking community and also federal agencies are quite interested in power tool safety issues, as competing flesh-sensing technologies are developed, patented, and implemented on table saws, changing them forever. Maybe something will come along soon for band saws, too, as regulatory bodies and users seem to be at odds about what direction to go. Should the technology be mandated, or should it be left to the individual in his/her shop?

Meanwhile, for safety’s sake, and in the interest of following up on the reader’s comment, I show in the video below how I use a push stick and a push block to ensure I retain all my fingers without much of a chance of incurring even a scratch. Note that the push block has a piece on the back end that catches the work piece, ensuring I can push it forward; sometimes I also use a push stick to assist pushing the work piece, while the push block helps me keep the work piece flush against the fence and moving forward.

I suggest the following guidelines to everyone working with tools in the shop:

  1. Always, always, always know how a particular machine works. If not sure, don’t use it until you get proper instruction and advice. I believe it is my responsibility, and that it is also your responsibility, to learn to use the machine properly, to avoid injury.
  2. Never, never, never, ever work in the shop while tired, or under the influence of medicine, alcohol, or drugs.
  3. Always think about your next action; rehearse the cut, and make sure you have considered what could possibly go wrong.
  4. Listen to the little voice that tells you “something” is not right. I remember getting ready to rip a board on the table saw; everything seemed right, except the board I milled the day before did not feel “right”. It had twisted, and the jointed edge was no longer straight — the perfect combination that could result in the waste being pushed into the blade, resulting in kickback.
  5. Make sure your fingers are at least 3 inches away from a moving blade at all times.
  6. Use push blocks and push sticks; but do so properly, always using suitable blocks and sticks (not all are suitable). If not sure how to use them, ask for advice on proper design, and learn how how to use them.
  7. Always make sure you touch the work piece or the waste only after the blade has stopped moving completely. Do not touch anything in the vicinity of a moving blade.
  8. Maintain your tools. From time time, make sure all bolts, machine screws, belts and pulleys are tightly in place.
  9. Use machine guards. If you don’t think they are adequate, find suitable replacements. But always use them.
  10. Hand tools: Always aim hand tools, including chisels and screw drivers, away from body parts. And make sure the tip of the tool cannot hit any body part while working.

I hope the following video will help woodworkers work safely at the band saw. The push stick I use is a 6- to 7-inch long stick I normally use to stack boards on the lumber rack; and the push block is one I built to work on the table saw. The push block has 60-grit sandpaper on the bottom, to minimize the risk of slippage while pushing the work piece.

Using push sticks and push blocks
with the DriftMaster fence — Duration: 6:15 minutes

I welcome your comments, either in the Comments section below, or via e-mail.

Al Navas