May 18, 2012

The beauty of cherry as it ages

I started preparing a Quote for a client who would love to have a prie Dieu (prayer kneeler) made of cherry. As I did the paperwork, I pulled up the following photo from some tests I did in July 2008, exposing cherry to sunlight, and let it get a suntan. I also made a short video of the work I did; you will find it at this link. Cherry develops its initial patina in only about two weeks:

Suntan progress on cherry, 1 day to 11 days.

I made those tests as I prepared to apply the finish to Sierra’s little stool, almost two years ago. To show my prospective client how gorgeous cherry is, and what a nice varnish does to the wood, I snapped the following photos a few hours ago – please note that it is very important to look at finished wood in different light, as the values might change depending on the light itself.

In this first photo I placed the stool in our kitchen, in the shade, but facing the huge, double sliding doors, so that mostly daylight shone on it:

The cherry stool in the shade.

Then I moved the stool to an area by the sliding doors, directly in the sun:

The cherry stool in the sun.

The gorgeous patina on cherry just gets better and better with age. And the beauty of the grain in the wood is visible; the Waterlox varnish I prefer to use on cherry does not obscure the grain at all.

— Al Navas

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Sanding – gotta love it

Like so many other woodworkers, I used to hate sanding. In fact, many years ago, it was typical for me to spend many hours working on a project, only to get near the abyss of ruining a project by sloppy sanding, followed by applying a sloppy finish. The outcome: a sloppy project, and nowhere nearly as nice as it could have been — in other words, frustrating at best, and ugly at its worst. This was due to ignorance on my part — ignorance about what to do, how to do it, and what to use to do it well. In the end I learned better ways, and I now like the process about as much as doing anything else in the shop. It sounds crazy, right?

It is not that crazy, if you think about it; for it is the looks of the project that ultimately invite touching and feeling the wonderful surfaces, the nice curves and edges… But before I get sidetracked, I can word it better: Learn to sand properly, and the finished quality of your projects will jump to a new level! And by learning to sand properly, you will also gain appreciation for the careful sanding steps required between layers of topcoat you apply to your project. Ultimately, your dyes, your lacquer, your poly, etc., all your finishing materials will thank you, too.

The rule I now apply to my finishing projects is quite simple. If I take 100 hours to build a project, I allocate at least another 50 hours to the finishing process. This time includes sanding the wood, in preparation for the required sealing shellac wash coats, for example; then carefully sanding each layer of finish until I feel nothing but a smooth surface on the entire piece. The process is the same whether I am finishing a lid for small jewelry box, the box itself, of a huge dust cover for a large furniture piece.

The biggest discovery I made in tackling the proper finishing of a project, was finding the proper sanding paper. But not just any sanding paper. I finally, reluctantly, bought some of 3M’s 216U Fre-Cut™ Gold, 600-grit sandpaper; and now I buy it in sleeves of 50 sheets, from Homestead Finishing Products (Owner: Jeff Jewitt, the famous finishing guru). This paper is my secret weapon in a successful finishing process:

216U sanding paper.

As I mentioned, I buy the paper in 9″ X 11″ sheets, and then cut them to fit my sanding pads — each sheet gives me four pieces — I have never made a sandpaper cutting jig, as I find this method is quite simple:

Measuring to cut - not fancy.

I think that the edge of my 36-inch metal rule works great for cutting the paper to size. If you decide to do it this way, make sure the abrasive faces down, or your rule’s edge will be slowly worn away and you will no longer have a straight edge:

Cut with abrasive facing down.

After I finish applying a layer of coating, and the coating has cured or dried properly, I use the 600-grit paper on the sanding block to lightly sand all surfaces; the 216U is a long-lasting paper, and resists clogging with finish better than anything else I have used in the past:

Sanding thoroughly.

After sanding I then vacuum as much of the sanding dust as possible, and follow it with a thorough wipe-down using a moist paper towel or lint-free cloth:

Cleaning sanding dust.

This next step is crucial, and guaranteed to result in the smoothest finish on the project. Your fingers are extremely sensitive to imperfections on a surface; therefore, use them well, for they will reveal even the tiniest of bumps on the wood:

Feeling for the slightest "bump".

If needed, I will again sand the areas where “bumps” or imperfections still exist. By going through this entire process, I guarantee myself the best finished surface possible on my projects. If I can do it, I know YOU can, too! Take your time, and you will soon get wonderful results by sanding carefully, and patiently. And you will be happier with your projects.

Disclosure: I am a happy customer of Homestead Finishing. I have no interest in the company, other than their continued success.

— Al Navas

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