February 7, 2012

Do you know what type of pull should go on this drawer?

In an earlier article I shared input from one reader of the blog, regarding the type of joint used in an old drawer that Sandy and I found in an old dresser in an antique shop in Pennsylvania (answer: Knapp joints). Now he is asking for our help to find the period-correct type of pulls he should buy and install on dresser drawers in an old maple dresser. He writes (I added the bold emphasis):

..here’s a few photos of the old maple dresser with the Knapp joint drawers …. someone over the years had previously refinished it and put cheap Chippendale style bail pulls on it but they don’t belong …the finish was in sad shape so I had to refinish it again … the escutcheon plates appear to be original except for the brass nails … the plates themselves appear to be stamped copper. A local antique dealer said he thinks the plates are what was called a “Rice” design but I’m not familiar with it and he wasn’t positive …. Any info you or your readers might have on what type of pulls should go on this piece (will be) greatly appreciated.

The photos he submitted are as follows. First, the drawer with the Knapp joints:

And the dresser looks like this:

The lock detail – although a little out of focus, I hope it can help narrow down the search:

Knowing that Al is also an avid woodworker, I requested additional information about his hobby. He wrote:

The pair of night stands I built to accompany this dresser are almost  ready for finishing.

A photo of one of the nightstands he will be finishing soon – (gorgeous work, Al):

Friends, Al needs your help. I am not an expert in this period furniture (or any other period, for that matter). Please leave a Comment, or let me know via e-mail, and I will pass the information to Al. Many thanks!

— Al Navas

here’s a few photos of the old maple dresser with the Knapp joint
drawers …. someone over the years had previously refinished it and
put cheap Chippendale style bail pulls on it but they don’t belong …
the finish was in sad shape so I had to refinish it again  … the
escutcheon plates appear to be original except for the brass nails …
the plates themselves appear to be stamped copper.  A local antique
dealer said he thinks the plates are what was called a “Rice” design
but I’m not familiar with it and he wasn’t positive ….   Any info
you or your readers might have on what type of pulls should go on this
piece greatly appreciated.

Fitting the drawers to the stand-up desk

Finally, time to fit the drawers to their respective openings in the front apron of the desk (Edit to add: all hand-cut dovetails, as I am trying to reproduce features of a desk for my client):

Changes in humidity caused the drawer fronts to grow considerably across the grain; I had to wait until things stabilized prior to doing the initial fitting – I am glad I did. Had I not waited, it would have been close to impossible to remove the drawers from the openings without damaging the front apron, as they would been too tight!

As I made progress, things are taking shape. Notice how the grain runs uninterrupted from left to right; this is the result of cutting the drawer front pieces from the same board as the front apron/frame:

The initial fitting is always exciting, as it is an opportunity to aim for the smallest possible reveal around the drawer fronts, while ensuring smooth opening and closing of every drawer. Sharp hand planes are the best way to do it!

The fourth drawer awaits initial fitting now. Construction can then proceed, as moisture content in the wood has stabilized significantly.

— Al Navas

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Related articles: Click this link to read several articles related to the construction of the desk.

Making slips for drawers

I received several questions about making and using drawer slips; in this entry I will show how I do it, using power tools and a simple layout technique.

Drawer slips are are grooved strips of wood, used primarily to hold the drawer bottom in place. It is a terrific way to reinforce thin drawer sides. The slips are glued to the sides, to provide the reinforcement. I showed one such slip in a sample drawer prepared for a client – nothing was yet glued:

It was this  photo that prompted several questions from readers.

In the photo above, notice that the slip projects just below the drawer side. In fitting the drawer, the slips are planed even with the sides, which increases the total surface area; this results in reduced wear of the frame supporting the drawer(s).

What follows is how I go about making the slips, using simple tongue & groove joinery; rabbets would also be a good joinery choice.

I start by preparing several strips, including some spares that I will use for machine setup and testing – notice I match and mark each pair, to enhance their appearance when placed in the drawer:

Using one of the spare strips, I set up the groove router bit to height. A straight edge helps me align the bit’s bearing with the fence:

Remember the spare slips? I use one to assure myself the router bit height and groove depth are properly set:

A tip on the use of the tongue & groove router bit set I use: The “show face” is always down, to ensure flush surfaces of the assembled pieces. The router bits are perfectly matched in height, which simplifies changing from one bit to the other as needed.

Once satisfied the setup is good, I machine the grooves in all strips. Then I change to the tongue bit, in preparation to machine the tongues on the drawer panels:

Do you notice the bearing sandwiched between the cutters in the router bit above? This bearing is registered with the fence in the say as I showed for the groove bit. Another tip: The offset wrench allows me to change bits without changing the height of the bits!

Before machining the tongues on the bottom panels, I must first dimension the panels to proper width. I start by clamping two slips to one drawer edge, measuring the width, and adding 7/16″; this allows for machining the two 1/4″ tongues, while leaving 1/16″ of side-to-side  movement. Then I mark a story stick with this dimension:

After trimming the bottom panels to proper width, I now machine the tongues – the Feather Guard is my third hand, as it keeps the edge of the panel tight against the router table top while I press the panel against the fence:

The next photo shows the bottom panel inserted in the slip. Notice the perfect alignment on the top edges – this is possible because I did not have to change the bit height:

All that is left at this point is to machine a very slight roundover on the top inside edge of the slip. After trimming the slips to proper length, and gluing them to the sides, the drawers will be ready for glue-up. Note to self: I must remember to machine the groove on the drawer fronts…

If you are interested in drawers, you might want to watch the video of Mario Rodriguez I shot during the Woodworking in America conference at Valley Forge, and later edited for the blog.

— Al Navas

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