July 30, 2010

Sizzlin’ Summer special from Leigh!

I don’t own any Isoloc templates, but this offer will likely make me buy one. Leigh is offering free router bits for use with the templates:

Make sure to visit the Isoloc web page to read the details. In case you are not familiar with the look of this joint, I invite you to look at the Isoloc Photo Gallery page, and click on each of the four links to go to each of the photo pages. In the meantime, maybe I can entice you look, with the following:

From the Leigh "fancy" Isoloc web page.

Disclosure: Leigh is a sponsor of my blog. I am never paid for promoting the use of their products. I sometimes do receive tools, for evaluation purposes.

Al Navas

Tutorial: How to make the mold for the curvy legs on the little table

I received several requests to show how to make the mold to create the bent laminations that became the curvy legs on a small table I built recently. Get some coffee, and enjoy!

Background:

It starts with a full-size drawing on a piece of 1/4-inch plywood – doing so allows you to adjust the arch radius, etc.:

Laying out the curves for the full-size drawing was interesting – but I found an easy way to zero in on the trammel length I would need. First, large calipers, to get the curves to look “right”:

Then I made a simple trammel with a hole large enough to allow the pencil tip draw two lines, the rough outline of the leg and stretcher thickness:

Using the trammel set for the radius in the full-size drawing, I drew the curves on a piece of 1/2″ thick MDF, and cut the curve on the band saw – THIS will become the “master”, from which all curves will derive:

Before continuing, it was necessary to smooth the edges, to finish the MDF boards with these “master” curves – I made a flexible sanding block, and sanded until happy with the curvature:

The other side of the master mold receives the same treatment:

After transferring the smooth outlines to 3/4″ MDF, I cut close to the line, and used a pattern router bit to make exact duplicates of the “master” curves:

The first set of curves on the 3/4-inch MDF becomes the pattern from which all others are made. It took several copies to make the mold to create the curves, but I was finally ready to use the mold – here is one-half of the mold, as I prepare to apply cork and tape over the cork – each new piece is screwed on to the previous one, to keep all pieces perfectly aligned – they are stacked and screwed to the previous one, then the edge is smoothed at the router table, until the desired width is obtained:

Cork is required to smooth the slightest imperfections in the curve:

Pressure is applied to smooth the glued cork on the mold halves:

Tape is then applied on top of the cork, to allow the glue to release from the mold without damaging either the mold or the work piece:

Now that the mold halves are done, it is time to resaw the pieces to be laminated:

Mix, and apply Unibond 800 on the surfaces to be laminated – this glue has a long open time, which makes very nice for this, and for veneering applications:

NOW is the time to use the mold simply insert the pieces that will become the bent lamination:

Allow the glue to cure under clamp pressure, and remove from the mold after allowing the glue to cure overnight:

After cleaning one edge, and maybe even running one edge over the jointer blades, clean up the other edge on the band saw:

It will be necessary to use a block plane (or YOUR favorite tool) to do a final clean-up of the edges:

Cleaning up the edges.

Thanks for staying with me for the entire process – enjoy! And please let me know if I goofed up something in the process.

Al Navas

Half-blind finger joints using the F3 template

In a recent article about the F3, I made regular (“through”) finger joints using the new F3 template mounted on my old D4 jig. In this episode I show how I made half-blind finger joints quickly and accurately.

I skip the details of the basic setup; however, I do cover the steps required to ensure a tight joint, as follows:

  1. Always use scraps when making adjustments — don’t sacrifice project wood, especially if you are using exotic woods
  2. Minimize or eliminate turning the router in any way — doing so is the best way to mess up the joint fit
  3. Always push the router through the template fingers in a straight line — just another way of saying #2 above
  4. Make adjustments to the fit in small increments of the e-Bush; using calipers I am able to get the final fit in two tries

In the closeups in the video, you will notice that the router base moves in a straight line. I concentrated on this, to ensure the best joint fit. Because the e-Bush is elliptical, rotation of the router as the cut is made will cause the fit to vary.

You can access the F3 User Guide at this link. This document is also the guide for all the new finger joint templates made by Leigh. The procedure for half-blind finger joints starts on Page 17 (Chapter 7).

Now, the video – lots of router action, to emphasize the items 1-4, above:

Download this video in Quicktime format
(In Windows, Right-click | Save Link As…)
Duration: 16:23 minutes
File size: 279 MB

Let me know if you use a finger joint jig of any kind:

  • Do you make boxes with finger joints? If you do:
  1. Do you make finger joints with help of a shop-made jig?
  2. Do you use a commercial jig or template to make finger joints?
  3. If you use a commercial jig, which one?

I look forward to your comments.

Acknowledgement: My thanks to my friend, Jason Riley, Professional Guitarist, for allowing me to use his music in my videos. Jason lives in St Joseph, Missouri, USA.

Disclosure: Leigh Industries is a sponsor of this blog. On occasion, I receive tools and jig templates for evaluation; and I maintain total editorial freedom of the reviews I present on the blog. Plain and simple, I never receive or accept cash for anything I review.

Al Navas

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