May 23, 2012

A balancing act

 

Joe in Colorado wrote, asking whether the cradle I built might tip toward one end or the other as it was picked up by the handles. I replied that the cradle is perfectly balanced, as I used the following balancing technique prior to cutting the handles on the sides:

Getting perfect balance on the cradle

The tool: a 1-inch dowel placed across the bottom of the cradle, and perpendicular to the sides. I was careful to measure the distances with a tape measure prior to balancing. Once perfectly balanced, I marked the pivot point with chalk, and used a square to transfer the balance point to the top side edges. Then I marked the handle openings, cut with a jig saw, and smoothed the handle openings with rasps and files.

Balancing this way requires that the cradle be ready, or close to ready for the finish. At this point the cradle was already glued up; I had cleaned up the joinery with hand planes to ensure the corners were nice and flat, and that all the surfaces were sanded.

Here are the handles, already shaped:

Shaped handles - handles at balance point

Why wait to this point?

The answer: Removing material from large surfaces such as the sides may throw the balance slightly toward one end or the other. Given precious cargo such as a newborn baby, improper balance is a risk not worth taking.

How would YOU do it?

  • Is there a better way to properly balance the cradle to mark the handles?
  • How would YOU have done it?

I would like to learn how you would have done it. Please leave a Comment below, or contact me via the Contact Form by clicking on my signature below.

Al Navas

Loaded for bear

 

As I go through the cleanup of the shop, I move around machines and equipment. This allows me to make room to relocate things; at the same time, I re-discover equipment that has been idle for a time.

For the last several months I have been making a lot of boxes with finger joints. I am in the middle of changing gears, so it was most appropriate that I picked up this box. I opened it with trepidation, only to find some good friends:

Dovetail router bit kit

This set of bits has served me well. I bought it from Highland Woodworking in the (very) early 2000s, and have made innumerable boxes with the various bits. The boxes have featured dovetails in just about all varieties: Through dovetails and half-blind, and also end-on-end dovetails,  and inlaid dovetails. This makes me wonder:  How many more boxes I can make with the same bits?

How about YOU?

I would love to hear from you:

  • Do you machine-cut the dovetails for your projects?
  • Do you make a lot of boxes?
  • Or do you prefer to hand-cut dovetails for your projects?
  • What is the largest single project you have made that incorporated dovetails?

Al Navas

 

Keeping things straight when cutting joinery

 

Joinery. Dovetails. Finger joints. Mortise and tenon.

George asked a question

How do I keep the board orientation throughout a project, to make sure the project comes out right without redoing any part of the joinery?

It is extremely helpful to know which side of a board will be oriented to the inside of a box, once the box is assembled. When finger joints are the joinery, it is not critical, as the boards will fit no matter how the boards are assembled; the only requirement is that the finger board match the socket board. On the other hand, the craftsman must be vigilant when dovetails are the joinery. This is why properly marking the surfaces is critical.

For example, I clearly mark the outer surface of the pins boards, to ensure I place the board on the jig properly:

Marked side of board when cutting dovetails

See the little square with the funny little triangle “below” the square? That is the way I learned to mark the boards — it is the icon recommended by Leigh in their User Guide. I learned to use this little icon on the first day I used the old D4 dovetail jig, close to ten years ago. And I still use it today, as I respond to it immediately when reading the side of the board. But about 5 years ago I also started writing the board orientation. If you thought I miscut that a board, you are correct; I started writing the orientation, because I had erased the little icon almost completely, and inserted the board wrong-side-out. Fortunately, I was able to cut off the pins off that board, and the result was a slightly narrower box (a blanket chest).

The following image will give a more complete picture (pardon the pun…) of the complete markings I use on a project — and how I re-mark the boards as I handle them, to ensure I execute the joinery properly:

Marking sides of boards when cutting dovetails

I hope this helps other woodworkers as they use their jigs. And I thank George in South Carolina for asking how I do it.

Now, YOU

What precautions do YOU take to make sure the boards stay oriented properly?

 

Al Navas

 

 

Page optimized by WP Minify WordPress Plugin