May 21, 2012

Loaded for bear

 

As I go through the cleanup of the shop, I move around machines and equipment. This allows me to make room to relocate things; at the same time, I re-discover equipment that has been idle for a time.

For the last several months I have been making a lot of boxes with finger joints. I am in the middle of changing gears, so it was most appropriate that I picked up this box. I opened it with trepidation, only to find some good friends:

Dovetail router bit kit

This set of bits has served me well. I bought it from Highland Woodworking in the (very) early 2000s, and have made innumerable boxes with the various bits. The boxes have featured dovetails in just about all varieties: Through dovetails and half-blind, and also end-on-end dovetails,  and inlaid dovetails. This makes me wonder:  How many more boxes I can make with the same bits?

How about YOU?

I would love to hear from you:

  • Do you machine-cut the dovetails for your projects?
  • Do you make a lot of boxes?
  • Or do you prefer to hand-cut dovetails for your projects?
  • What is the largest single project you have made that incorporated dovetails?

Al Navas

 

Keeping things straight when cutting joinery

 

Joinery. Dovetails. Finger joints. Mortise and tenon.

George asked a question

How do I keep the board orientation throughout a project, to make sure the project comes out right without redoing any part of the joinery?

It is extremely helpful to know which side of a board will be oriented to the inside of a box, once the box is assembled. When finger joints are the joinery, it is not critical, as the boards will fit no matter how the boards are assembled; the only requirement is that the finger board match the socket board. On the other hand, the craftsman must be vigilant when dovetails are the joinery. This is why properly marking the surfaces is critical.

For example, I clearly mark the outer surface of the pins boards, to ensure I place the board on the jig properly:

Marked side of board when cutting dovetails

See the little square with the funny little triangle “below” the square? That is the way I learned to mark the boards — it is the icon recommended by Leigh in their User Guide. I learned to use this little icon on the first day I used the old D4 dovetail jig, close to ten years ago. And I still use it today, as I respond to it immediately when reading the side of the board. But about 5 years ago I also started writing the board orientation. If you thought I miscut that a board, you are correct; I started writing the orientation, because I had erased the little icon almost completely, and inserted the board wrong-side-out. Fortunately, I was able to cut off the pins off that board, and the result was a slightly narrower box (a blanket chest).

The following image will give a more complete picture (pardon the pun…) of the complete markings I use on a project — and how I re-mark the boards as I handle them, to ensure I execute the joinery properly:

Marking sides of boards when cutting dovetails

I hope this helps other woodworkers as they use their jigs. And I thank George in South Carolina for asking how I do it.

Now, YOU

What precautions do YOU take to make sure the boards stay oriented properly?

 

Al Navas

 

 

Dismantling jigs and repairing a push block

 

In cabinet making, using the proper push blocks is like buying insurance: build them properly, and they will serve you well. But pay no attention to their condition, and you may get surprised or hurt when you least expect it.

Take them apart

If you don’t need a particular jig or push block, take it apart. Discard it. burn it. Don’t have it taking precious shop space. Recycle the wood if possible, or discard it permanently. Keeping obsolete jigs may force you into taking out another mortgage, just to keep the shop functioning – that is, you will need a larger one at some point.

Buy insurance

Push blocks are the perfect example of buying insurance when you need it. If you are going to machine stock in the shop using a jointer, for example, keep your fingers away from the rotating blades. A good push block is the perfect aid, as it will force you to keep your fingers away from the blades, while allowing you to get the work piece to beyond the blades at all times. I always recommend you avoid pushing the work piece with your hands; this is an injury waiting to happen.

The following is a high-resolution image of the push block I prefer to use on the jointer and, when possible, also on the table saw:

Push block - good insurance!

 

Video

In this video I show how quickly assembled jigs and push blocks can be dismantled and recycled. I especially like the handle-shaped push block, as I can rely on it to help me joint even the heaviest boards:
 

 

Acknowlegment

Music by Patroux, Keys and Colors album; Creative Commons license.
 

What do YOU do between projects?

I would love to hear how you handle the jigs and other project-specific jigs, once you are done with the project. Thanks!
 

Al Navas

 

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