February 8, 2012

A heavy-duty quilting frame

Some time ago my wife Sandy shared with readers of the blog the transformation to the sewing room. We both hope that the new location will last a while, or we will start running out of room altogether — does anyone remember the story told by George Carlin about filling a home with “stuff”, and then having to move to a new home so that they could get more “stuff” to put in it?

Wikipedia defines Quilting as follows:

Quilting is a sewing method done to join two or more layers of material together to make a thicker padded material. A quilter is the name given to someone who works at quilting. Quilting can be done by hand, by sewing machine, or by a specialist longarm quilting system.

Sewing is the key word. Sandy sewed together a pattern, and shared it with us in her Guest Author post. Here it is is, on the layout board hanging on the North wall — the small triangles in the top two rows are already sewn together:

Layout board.

Once all the rows are sewn together into what will become the show face of the quilt, it must be assembled together with a padding layer, and a backing layer. This assembly can be done on the quilter’s lap, or using a quilting frame to stretch all the materials and allow the quilter to do the work off her/his lap.

A bit of history about quilting

Once again, from Wikipedia, quilting comes from the Latin culcita, meaning a padded and tied mattress. Its origins date to around the first century B.C. Techniques moved into Europe around the 12th century, likely as a result of trade and the return of Crusaders from far away lands.

An interesting document from WKU (Western Kentucky University) is The History of Quilting, which begins with settlers arriving in North America. Quilting frames were used mostly by groups, although individuals may have also used them. Meeting in groups eventually (and inevitably?) led to the popular quilting bee; the group sat around a quilting frame that allowed as many as seven quilters, plus the hostess. The frames were hung from the ceiling when not in use, and were lowered for use by the group. From this document comes this wonderful image:

The quilting bee, image courtesy WKU.

The following image from Wikipedia, taken in 2005, shows that quilting bees are still quite popular – notice the huge frame in use:

Women from Gee's Bend work on a quilt during the 2005 ONB Magic City Art Connection in Birmingham, Alabama's Linn Park. Courtesy Wikipedia.

I built a sturdy 3-roller quilting frame

Forward to the present. I built an eight-foot long, sturdy 3-roller quilting frame for Sandy to use. She has at least eight quilts to make, in various sizes. I made the frame large enough to cover all the quilt sizes she will make. I must emphasize that while this frame is very sturdy, it is also portable. It is portable because it can be broken down into the main component pieces, and relocated to another room, or to a new city if need be.

A good quilting frame must be capable of applying tension to the various layers that make up the quilt. Rather than machining critical parts, I bought a kit that provided the 3 ratchet wheels, and the pawls and clamps to secure the poles. It is available with all the screws needed to make the frame. The following image is linked to the Sandal Woods Store — if you decide to purchase the kit, you will also support my work (I get a small commission):

The kit includes excellent plans, ratchet wheels, pawls, clamps, and all the screws; you provide the lumber.

You will find the kit as the second image of the store link above. If you would rather click only once, click here to go directly to the kit at Amazon.com (I still get a small commission).

It is possible to also buy the kit as a PLUS kit, meaning they will send all the lumber required; all you will need to buy is the 1-½” conduit to use as rollers, and the 8-inch wide trestle . As I mentioned earlier, I bought the basic kit, and provided all the lumber for the project. I used 2-inch thick walnut, planed to 1-7/8 thick for the feet, and 1-½ inch thick for the uprights.

During construction I chuckled a bit when I assembled the top piece to the upright. The assembly reminded me of Bullwinkle:

Right side, unfinished.

What do you think?

Bullwinkle.

I drawbored the feet to the uprights using ¼-inch dowels, but without glue. The tenon and mortise joint (made with the Leigh FMT!) is tightly secured with the dowels:

Used drawboring to attach the feet - unfinished.

I applied two layers of  Waterlox varnish to the walnut and let it cure overnight. Then I assembled the frame in our living room, in front of the sliding doors:

Front view of finished frame.

Some additional details of this frame follow.

The next photo shows the frame ready to accept the cloths that will be used to stretch the quilt on the frame — the finish on the walnut is Waterlox varnish:

View of quilting frame from right side.

This next photo shows the center and rear ratchets and pawls; note the pipe clamps in the recess of the ratchets:

Ratchets and pawls installed on left side.

To dress up the pipe ends, the kit includes turned end caps:

The end caps are included in the kit.

At last, the frame is loaded with the first quilt — a present for someone very special to us:

First quilt loaded.

Sandy is happy with this frame; I think (hope!) it will last her a long time.

Please note: If you are unable to build one, I will be glad to build a quilting frame for you. Contact me by clicking on my signature below, or call me on 816-617-9236.

Al Navas

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A little push for Woodworking in America – 17th century carving

If you are still on the fence about attending Woodworking in America this year, don’t wait any longer. I trust what follows will change your mind.

First, class sessions are sold out – you won’t be able to attend, as you simply cannot register for any courses. Registration closed a while back.

What is still available? The Exhibitor Marketplace, of course!  Click here to read an article by Christopher Schwarz – you will get to meet Tommy MacDonald, Rob Cosman, Reto Odermatt, and Don Webber; in fact, they will be “permanent fixtures” for the duration of the Marketplace!

And if you have not considered attending the conference this year, maybe this article will make you want to attend next year. For example, a 17th century carved box by Peter Follansbee, which he shared with us during his hands-on session at Valley Forge, in the 2009 edition of the conference:

Carved box by Peter Follansbee.

If looking at this box still does not sway you to plan to attend, maybe the following video will help change your mind. I extracted 20 minutes from Peter’s 90-minute hands-on session at Valley Forge. This is the value you get when you attend the conference: you get a unique chance to watch, and to work with, the principal woodworkers invited to lead the hands-on sessions. The close-up exchange of ideas, the question – answer environment, is a terrific way to learn during the conference.

Enjoy this video! And Please let me know if you like what you see – details of carving, Peter’s technique to quickly make a tenon using a large chisel, his drawboring technique, etc.  — Al Navas

I hope to meet many of you in Cincinnati. Have a safe drive!

Drawer stops for the stand-up desk

If you follow the blog, you already know I dislike stuck drawers, and sloppy fitting drawers. In the sloppy category I place a drawer that goes into the opening crooked, such that you must fiddle with it to align it to the opening. The solution to avoid this is to install drawer stops, and to carefully trim them to ensure perfect alignment of the drawer front with the apron.I use a variation of the technique used by Mario Rodriguez, which he discussed during his presentation at Woodworking in America at Valley Forge, Pennsylvania; I shot and edited a video that you can watch at this link.

To ensure proper alignment, I insert a drawer stop into a mortise I mark and then chop with chisels. I also use liquid hide glue, to make it easy to replace the stops if needed:

The right drawer stop.

The following photo shows the taper I put on the bottom of the front edge; this allows me to tweak the position of the stop during the glue-up (once the glue has cured, I simply trim the edge to ensure perfect alignment of the drawer front):

The left stop.

In the next photo I show the two drawer stops installed, and ready for trimming — I set each stop 2-5/8″ from the drawer openings. In this photo I have removed the drawer bottom, to make it possible to peek at the front edge:

Both stops installed, ready for trimming.

Once the glue has set on all stops, I will do the fine-tuning with the small #75 bull nose rabbet plane.

Al Navas

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