July 30, 2010

Getting ready to install the top on the stand-up desk

In an earlier article I showed a great tip to edge-join two boards at a precise 7.6° angle:

The test joint used to test angle.

The jig is simplicity itself: one ¼-inch thick plywood piece is raised on one end by a narrow board; the distance of the narrow board is adjusted back and forth until the angle is dialed in, using the Dixey digital angle gauge:

Jig to cut biscuit slots, offset 1/4-inch, angled at 3.8°

In the photo above, the offset of the biscuits is obtained with the “show” surface down, such that the biscuits are closer to what will be the bottom side of the desk top. This ensures the cut stays far from the show surface. The biscuits are used strictly to align the edges in the glue-up of the large desk top.

In the next photo, the test boards are under full clamp pressure – even without glue, the boards remain in perfect alignment:

The test boards hold under full clamp power!

I wondered about alignment at the edges of the board; alignment also help perfectly:

Test boards clamped - and the biscuits hold.

The edge-to-edge alignment is so good, that the glue-line-to-be disappears – can you spot it in this next photo?

The scraped joint - can you see it?

It will be essential to hold down the desk top, while allowing wood movement as changes in moisture content take place. For this desk I use figure 8s installed in blocks of quarter-sawn white oak glued to the aprons:

Figure 8s to secure the desk top.

Using a number of figure 8s will ensure the top stays in place:

Almost ready to accept the top!

The time finally came to glue up the top. Glued and clamped, then carefully aligned to registration marks on the side aprons, the glue-up went well:

The top glued and clamped.

The liquid hide glue gives excellent open time, allowing for proper glue distribution and edge alignment:

Just enough squeeze-out.

I am very pleased with the results. Once again, my thanks to Sandy for her help with this glue-up! I will scrape the top, do some finish scraping and/or sanding, and then start the finishing process.

Al Navas

A great tip: joining desk top boards at an angle

Today you get a great tip for nothing – that’s right – FREE!

I was ready to make the 90° cut on the glued-up desk top, to separate the board that aligns with the backs of the legs on the desk. But at the last minute I chickened out, to think it over. Something did not seem right; should it be a 90° cut? Or should it be something else?

A little background: From an old blog entry, the following photograph shows the relatively narrow width of the board that will at the back of the desk top – it is the flat area where the clamp is located. It will be just over 6-1/2 inches wide from the back of legs to the point where the slope starts toward the front of the desk:

The angled top area.

The more I though about it, a 90° cut did not seen the right thing to do. I decided to get a second opinion from Rick, one of the master cabinetmakers in the area, and a member of our Guild; he is the guy who showed us a new way to fold a band saw blade at a recent Guild meeting. Very quickly he zeroed in on why the cut must be something other than 90°: regardless which side gets the right angle cut, one of the boards will end up a little “thick” (proud), relative to the other. Rick suggested that each side should get the same identical bevel cut. That was it!

The second part of my dilemma had to do with what kind of jig to use to assemble the desk top during glue-up. A little more discussion ensued, and Rick suggested the desk frame itself would be THE best jig available (of course!), with a few biscuits inserted on edge to assist with alignment. This will be one of the few times I use biscuits to assist with edge alignment.

It was time for some test cuts. I spent yesterday with some test boards, zeroing in on the angle. I had originally determined the angle indirectly, by simply measuring the back and front heights of a very old stand-up desk. From those measurements, the slope toward the front is approximately 7°. I used a cheap metal protractor to mark the angles for the aprons and the divider I cut on the table saw. But for the desk top I needed to be right on the angle. Test cuts at 3.5° on each of two boards were not quite right. Additional cuts helped me zero in on the perfect angle of 7.6° total, or 3.8° for each cut. How was this accuracy possible on the table saw? The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge, of course!

In the following photo I show the results of the test cuts at 3.8°, with the test boards set on the apron, and no clamps used for to hold the boards together:

The test angle cuts.

I inspected the aprons under the boards, to make sure that at this angle the boards would be flush with the aprons. It worked.

Now that I know the angle, I will make a very simple jig to cut the biscuit slots accurately. Once the slots are cut on both sides, it will be time to make the final cuts on the boards that will make the desk top.

Al Navas

Drawer stops for the stand-up desk

If you follow the blog, you already know I dislike stuck drawers, and sloppy fitting drawers. In the sloppy category I place a drawer that goes into the opening crooked, such that you must fiddle with it to align it to the opening. The solution to avoid this is to install drawer stops, and to carefully trim them to ensure perfect alignment of the drawer front with the apron.I use a variation of the technique used by Mario Rodriguez, which he discussed during his presentation at Woodworking in America at Valley Forge, Pennsylvania; I shot and edited a video that you can watch at this link.

To ensure proper alignment, I insert a drawer stop into a mortise I mark and then chop with chisels. I also use liquid hide glue, to make it easy to replace the stops if needed:

The right drawer stop.

The following photo shows the taper I put on the bottom of the front edge; this allows me to tweak the position of the stop during the glue-up (once the glue has cured, I simply trim the edge to ensure perfect alignment of the drawer front):

The left stop.

In the next photo I show the two drawer stops installed, and ready for trimming — I set each stop 2-5/8″ from the drawer openings. In this photo I have removed the drawer bottom, to make it possible to peek at the front edge:

Both stops installed, ready for trimming.

Once the glue has set on all stops, I will do the fine-tuning with the small #75 bull nose rabbet plane.

Al Navas

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