February 8, 2012

Dismantling jigs and repairing a push block

 

In cabinet making, using the proper push blocks is like buying insurance: build them properly, and they will serve you well. But pay no attention to their condition, and you may get surprised or hurt when you least expect it.

Take them apart

If you don’t need a particular jig or push block, take it apart. Discard it. burn it. Don’t have it taking precious shop space. Recycle the wood if possible, or discard it permanently. Keeping obsolete jigs may force you into taking out another mortgage, just to keep the shop functioning – that is, you will need a larger one at some point.

Buy insurance

Push blocks are the perfect example of buying insurance when you need it. If you are going to machine stock in the shop using a jointer, for example, keep your fingers away from the rotating blades. A good push block is the perfect aid, as it will force you to keep your fingers away from the blades, while allowing you to get the work piece to beyond the blades at all times. I always recommend you avoid pushing the work piece with your hands; this is an injury waiting to happen.

The following is a high-resolution image of the push block I prefer to use on the jointer and, when possible, also on the table saw:

Push block - good insurance!

 

Video

In this video I show how quickly assembled jigs and push blocks can be dismantled and recycled. I especially like the handle-shaped push block, as I can rely on it to help me joint even the heaviest boards:
 

 

Acknowlegment

Music by Patroux, Keys and Colors album; Creative Commons license.
 

What do YOU do between projects?

I would love to hear how you handle the jigs and other project-specific jigs, once you are done with the project. Thanks!
 

Al Navas

 

An old Millers Falls #1285C miter box

After reading an article by Ron Herman in the Woodworking Magazine Blog, and the companion article in Popular Woodworking Magazine, I wanted a good miter box with its matching backsaw. Why? Because I can use it even when the power is off; because I don’t need dust collection for it; because…That’s what I kept telling myself, and it is also what I told Sandy. Of course, she understood what I meant: “…I need a miter box because they are cool, and because Ron Herman wrote that they are cool…” Really. They are cool. And they are also very accurate, as I later found out.

I advertised in the regional edition of a well-known online web site, and a few days later I received an e-mail that a man in the region had a Millers Falls miter box with saw, for $60. After some communication back and forth, we agreed on $40 for the miter box with its massive companion backsaw. I brought them home (about $20 in gas for the truck), cleaned up some of the grime on the box that accumulated in a basement for decades, and tried them out.

Everything works great; I had to use a little WD-40 to loosen machine screws, and to help with grime removal from the metal surfaces. Corrosion has done away with much of the nickel plating on the box, but a) it is complete, and b) everything works great. The bearing surfaces on the saw guides are perfect, and the elevator pins work perfectly (WD-40-assisted), effortlessly locking the saw in the raised position. The swing lever works smoothly, and the locking levers snap perfectly at each automatic indexing notch. Finally, the lever clamp locks the swinging lever such that it cannot be moved at all.

With everything working properly, I went about making several cuts. The first cut was on thin quarter sawn sycamore, and later on 7/8″ thick quarter sawn white oak. Although the saw worked flawlessly, it seemed just a bit slow for 11TPI. I suspect that sharpening by a competent person will speed up the cutting action. Note to self: Learn to sharpen saws! Let’s see: I need a good saw clamp; and some files; and a head-mounted magnifier; and…I am sure I forget some items.

This is the 1285C, ready to go to work:

Millers Falls 1285C miter box.

The back saw is massive: the blade is 28 inches long; it is 5 inches wide under the back, and it has 11 TPI (teeth per inch); the back is steel. The handle is some sort of hardwood; it has some nicks and paint splatter, and a hand-carved symbol that resembles the emblem of Zorro, the legendary masked hero. All the screws are tight, and the medallion is perfect and grimy. It appears to be a Disston #4 backsaw, from the 1940s, according to some of the saw experts on the WoodNet woodworking forum:

The Disston #4 backsaw.

The blade is not etched with the Disston logo; in fact, some research suggested that it was never etched — it might have been painted on the blade — or not. The back is cast steel:

Disston stamp on the cast steel back.

I waited until a few experts on old saws provided feedback on the best way to clean the grime from the blade, as I did not want to remove the nice patina from the blade. I wanted to remove only as much grime as possible. I finally cleaned the blade as much as possible, and applied some Boeshield T-9 as corrosion protection and lubricant.

While doing all this I also shot a 7-minute video of my first use of this miter box. If you have any suggestions on what else I should do to this miter box and/or backsaw, please leave me a Comment in the section below.

Millers Falls 1285 at Sandal Woods
Duration: 7:20 minutes

I learned the terminology for the miter box from the excellent manual Instructions and Parts List for Mitre Boxes by Millers Falls Co.; it is available available as a free download at WKfinetools.com .

Enjoy!

Al Navas

When things go wrong

I was on a roll, milling stock for drawers, when disaster struck. No matter what I tried, I was getting awful tearout on the maple. I had never experienced anything like it; time to sit down for a bit, take one deep breath, and plot a plan of attack:

  • Is there much variation from board to board that some planed well, and now they weren’t?
  • How is the grain running?
  • Am I getting distracted, and in the process reversing the feed direction, and causing the tearout?
  • Should I try a hand plane, and see how the boards behave vs. the planer?
  • Have I looked at the planer itself? Blades, speeds, spider webs, gremlins, what else?
  • Should I …

The following photo shows what I was dealing with – tearout like I had never, ever, experienced <gulp!…>:

tearout

On edge, many of the maple boards showed this kind of change in grain direction – but the DW735 had handled it beautifully, until now! Photo showing change in grain direction on the edge:

grain-direction-change

Down the checklist I went. A Stanley # 4-1/2 hand plane handled the grain beautifully. Now what? Blades!  Look at the blades on the planer, dummy! In almost 5 years, I had never (ever!) changed the blades. On this planer, the blades are double-edged, and can be rotated. It took exactly 15 minutes to rotate the three blades (each was secured with 8 machine screws). Indexing pins on the blade turret made the job a snap, as nothing more is required to set the blades properly.

Problem solved! The first board off the planer looked like this:

after-planer-blade-change

The moral of the story: If you are going along fine, and everything hits the proverbial fan, something has changed. Time to find the root cause!

.

—— Al Navas

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