I have a ’40′s – ’50′s ( I think!) English S & J dovetail saw with the “Superior” medallion in need of a good sharpening and set. While I have seen several S & J set tools some months ago in a hardware store here, they have since been removed from the shelves. It’s unlikely that I will see any more here in my lifetime…

I’d like to learn how to sharpen on this saw, but I also want to get some of the newer, better quality saws that have now become available from saw makers in the States. I will try to get the necessary equipment to sharpen and set saws when I go there later this year. I’ve been reading up on this, and everyone says one should give it a go, so I will.

Which hand saws do you own as users..?

Are there any comparative tests that you could post links for, please..?

I know that selecting a saw is a highly subjective decision, but any help for a Noob will be appreciated.

Thank you.

hoody,

I own a couple of dovetail saws: The first and the go-to dovetail saw is the Wenzloff & Sons replica of the Kenyon saw (article at http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2009/08/12/back-to-the-18th-century/ ):

And an English dovetail saw (article at http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2008/09/11/practice-should-make-perfect-hand-cut-dovetails/ ):

At the recent Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event in Kansas City I had a chance to try their progressive tooth dovetail saw – it worked great! I also tried out the Veritas dovetail saw; it was terrific, and the price is hard to beat ($65 to $75, I believe); Christopher Schwarz believes the Veritas is the best “entry-level” saw, in his article at http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/veritas_dovetail_saw/.

No matter what, it is very hard to go wrong when buying a saw. More and more, though, the direction seems to be to make a saw that is good at rip9ping and cross-cutting, as was done 150+ years ago.

I can probably best summarize by saying that today’s saws are very, very good. The

Thanks for those pointers, Al!

For some reason the links to your articles do not work…

Wow! That R & L is a BEAST! LOL!

Pretty good looking, though!

I was quite surprised that the LV outweighed the other saws that the Schwarz tested! I thought it looked kinda flimsy. Maybe it’s an optical illusion. Or psychological. One does not always associate a “plastic” look with mass!

I currently use a Japanese saw for dovetails, but its crosscut configuration is too slow for my liking in rip saw cuts. I like to get ‘er done!

The LV is unconventional, but I have read some very favorable comments from users, so I may just give it a try.

Thanks for the help!

(And I would still like to read those articles when you get the links fixed!)

hoody,

Sorry about the links – I had the closing parentheses too close to the actual links. They are working now.

Very interesting journey into learning to hand cut dovetail joints, Al! I thoroughly enjoyed reading the articles you wrote!

Mine are also improving. I use a Japanese saw but I’m getting to learn where to cut to minimize gaps and I am improving, which leaves a great feeling. I must admit that I was intimidated to try it, and that was really my only mistake. My best aid thus far was the excellent marking knife that my Woodnet SS sent me last year. It leaves a clear, thin cut line which allows me to better judge where to place the saw line.

The 14 tpi Veritas dovetail saw is available from only one source here, but it is priced at the equivalent of
$ 95.00..!

I think I’ll just pick it up in the States in July and utilize the $ 30.00 saving towards purchasing the X-cut saw! I just hope there is no objection against carrying saws in one’s luggage on international flights!

Thanks, hoody!

I have tried a Japanese saw, too, the one I bought at Woodworking in America from DiLegno Supply Company. I wrote another article at http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2009/09/01/the-stand-up-desk-defining-the-split-tenons/ – and this one I use for all types of joinery:

But for dovetails I stick to the saws I mentioned earlier.

hoody,

Which Japanese saw do you use? The reason I wonder: If it is one without a good, solid back, it is not very good, as it tends to wander in the kerf, based on my experience. I used one of those before I knew what I was doing.

The one in the photo above is the one I recommend, as it cuts extremely well in rip *and* cross-cut mode. Plus the blade is replaceable. The best part about it: they cost just over $30 U.S.

Sorry for not replying sooner, Al, but R/L took over here for a while!

Well.., …months..!

I’m going for the Gramercy dovetail saw.

I just like its smaller configuration and the research that went into this saw. I have not touched one yet, but it sure has touched me! LOL!

So I’ll be paying Joel a visit next month.

Cannot wait..! LOL!

At present I use a no name brand Japanese saw that I bought from an American store in Ohio that are quite friendly towards Woodnetters when it gets to summertime. Don’t get me wrong, these are good peeps, and saws, and their efforts are appreciated all over the world!

This is a MOUNTAIN MOVING time for me, so please understand that.

LOVED your table..! Block planes are hand tools! LOL!

I know you will love the Gramercy saw – I have tried it at the Woodworking in America gatherings, and am very impressed with it.

You take it easy between now and the long trip, and make sure to take along some Melatonin to help with jet lag.

I appreciate your comment about the table – I sure enjoyed the design and build-it exercise! I hope it will do well.

Gramercy also makes a very nice saw vise. I have one and it is the best. I used several of the older saw vise and they work well also. They also have the files you will need if you decide to start doing your own. I also had my favorite dovetail saw redone and sharpened by Bad Axe Saw. Best investment I made in a long time. The saw cut wonderful and since I’ve been using it to build small boxes mostly in soft wood it won’t have to be sharpened for a while, but when it does shouldn’t take more than a few minutes. The Swarz does a lot on hand saws and there is a bunch of information now out on the net. Like all things it’s very easy to get side tracked with the toys…I’m gunning for the most toys wins medal!