May 23, 2012

Using a dovetail jig to align edges on work pieces

Working with large glued-up panels to make a piece of furniture can be a challenge. But we can use the jig used to cut the joinery to our advantage, to get perfect edge registration. That is what I did when building the cradle. One reader asked how I did it; I explain below, using a few photographs. Click on all images to enlarge them.

The sides of the cradle were 37 inches long – I cut all the joinery on these boards using the Leigh D4R dovetail jig:

Cutting the pins on one of the sides.

This is the view as I looked at one of the side boards, after cutting the pins – notice the tapered fingers on the finger assembly point toward the user (to cut the tails, the finger assembly will be turned such that the rounded edges of the finger assembly point toward the user):

The pins cut; now to align the head and foot boards.


Since both the head panel and the foot panel are curved, they cannot be placed against the side stop on the dovetail jig; they must be placed far enough from the stops to ensure the curve allows perfect alignment of the edge of the panel under the finger assembly of the jig. The foot and head panels are perfectly vertical once the cradle is assembled; which makes edge alignment easy. In creating the layout on the finger assembly I made sure I stayed well away from the side stops on the jig.

To accomplish perfect edge registration, I clamped one of the curved panels in the jig, and inserted the already-cut pins (the side panels) into the tails side of the finger assembly, until they “locked” in the fingers. Then I moved the curved panel until the edge registered perfectly on the edge of the side panel, and marked the position on the backer board under the finger assembly.

The following photo will make this a bit clearer – you can see the pencil marks on the white oak board, at the edges of the curved panel under the finger assembly (the clamp bar is straight – the curvature is the result of the wide angle setting on the lens of the camera):

Using the D4R jig to align the tails boards.

The dovetails on the edge of the curved panels are cut on the edge registered for its corresponding edge of the side panels. It was just a simple matter to keep track of which edge corresponded with which other edge.

I am a firm believer in using the tools to get better accuracy. This worked well, and the edges of the cradle aligned perfectly.

Al Navas

A new arrival: The Leigh F2 finger joint template for the D4 jig

The following is a dramatic re-enactment of a delivery event that took place at the door to our mud room:

box-from-leigh

I rushed to the shop, and opened the box to reveal the contents – the Leigh F2 finger joint template, perfect for a number of boxes I will build:

f2-finger-joint-template

The photo below shows the quality of the F2 finger joint template – high quality all around; the logo is machined on the top surface:

f2-logo

In the photo below is the Variable Guidebush System, which allows precise adjustment of the size of the finger joinery (1/8th turn adjusts the joint fit by 0.001″ – one thousand of an inch!):

f2-variable-guide-bush

Not shown in these photos is the DVD that arrived in the same box. I have been watching some of the videos – the DVD contains 95 minutes of Leigh joinery jigs.

I look forward to using this new template – soon, I hope! This template is used on the Leigh D4 dovetail jig; to use it, I will remove the dovetail template, and install this one. Problem: I don’t know if I can wait too long (a large project in the shop: the stand-up desk)…

The features for the F2 are impressive (from the Leigh web site):

Features:

  • Precision CNC machined aluminum alloy template
  • Precisely adjustable joint fit
  • 9 sizes of finger joints for the F2 (1/16″, 3/32″, 1/8″, 5/32″, 3/16″, 1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″, 1/2″) and 6 sizes for the F1600 (1/16″, 1/8″, 3/16″, 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″)
  • 4 sizes of unique rounded finger joints
  • 4 sizes of square half-blind corners
  • 4 sizes of round/square through corner joints

Comes Standard with

  • Leigh 8-piece VGS variable guide bush system for the F2
  • Fully illustrated user guide
  • The F2 attaches directly to the D4R or any D-series 24″ Dovetail jig

I promise a full review of the F2 finger joint template at the earliest possible time. In the meantime, I will be playing with it as time permits <sigh…>

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Episode 16. Sliding dovetails on the Leigh D4R jig

Sliding dovetails are a great option when dealing with end grain joints, or with fixed shelves or dividers on a chest of drawers. I made a large sliding dovetail on the partition of the changing table I made some time ago (I used my old D4 jig, the predecessor to the D4R).

The D4R jig makes it simple and easy to create sliding dovetails:

  1. Select the router bit and a suitable guide bushing
  2. Route the dovetail slot – the board is clamped horizontally
  3. Route the tail at the same bit depth, and with the same router bit – the board is clamped vertically

To fine-tune the fit, adjust the tail size by moving the finger assembly either forward or backward in small increments. It is possible to make adjustments as small as 0.001″ (one thousand of an inch!).

Disclaimer: This is a Leigh-produced video, not my own production. My thanks to Leigh Industries for allowing me to post the jig video series on my blog.

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