Through Dovetails on the Leigh D4R Pro

 

It is no secret I like working with high quality jigs to make joinery. In the shop I have the Leigh D4R Pro, the older D4, and more recently I have been using the new R9Plus.

More than a few readers have written to me asking whether buying the R9Plus would mean giving up much capability, in exchange for a lower price. My reply is always that we never have easy compromises; yes, we do give up flexibility in joint design. For example, the D4R Pro gives just about everything we want in a dovetail and finger joint jig. You can read all about the D4R Pro features here.

I received the latest video on the flagship D4R Pro from Leigh:

 

 

This is perfect timing, because Leigh is offering FREE shipping during the holidays, on ANY order over $50. This alone will save you a chunk of change.

Disclosure: Leigh sends me equipment and accessories from time to time, for testing and evaluation purposes. I am not paid by Leigh for publishing about their products on my blog; and I am not paid for through clicks to the Leigh web site, so please feel to click on the banner at the top of the page, to visit the Leigh holiday Gift Guide page.

 

Al Navas

 

 

 

Loaded for bear

 

As I go through the cleanup of the shop, I move around machines and equipment. This allows me to make room to relocate things; at the same time, I re-discover equipment that has been idle for a time.

For the last several months I have been making a lot of boxes with finger joints. I am in the middle of changing gears, so it was most appropriate that I picked up this box. I opened it with trepidation, only to find some good friends:

Dovetail router bit kit

This set of bits has served me well. I bought it from Highland Woodworking in the (very) early 2000s, and have made innumerable boxes with the various bits. The boxes have featured dovetails in just about all varieties: Through dovetails and half-blind, and also end-on-end dovetails,  and inlaid dovetails. This makes me wonder:  How many more boxes I can make with the same bits?

How about YOU?

I would love to hear from you:

  • Do you machine-cut the dovetails for your projects?
  • Do you make a lot of boxes?
  • Or do you prefer to hand-cut dovetails for your projects?
  • What is the largest single project you have made that incorporated dovetails?

Al Navas

 

Keeping things straight when cutting joinery

 

Joinery. Dovetails. Finger joints. Mortise and tenon.

George asked a question

How do I keep the board orientation throughout a project, to make sure the project comes out right without redoing any part of the joinery?

It is extremely helpful to know which side of a board will be oriented to the inside of a box, once the box is assembled. When finger joints are the joinery, it is not critical, as the boards will fit no matter how the boards are assembled; the only requirement is that the finger board match the socket board. On the other hand, the craftsman must be vigilant when dovetails are the joinery. This is why properly marking the surfaces is critical.

For example, I clearly mark the outer surface of the pins boards, to ensure I place the board on the jig properly:

Marked side of board when cutting dovetails

See the little square with the funny little triangle “below” the square? That is the way I learned to mark the boards — it is the icon recommended by Leigh in their User Guide. I learned to use this little icon on the first day I used the old D4 dovetail jig, close to ten years ago. And I still use it today, as I respond to it immediately when reading the side of the board. But about 5 years ago I also started writing the board orientation. If you thought I miscut that a board, you are correct; I started writing the orientation, because I had erased the little icon almost completely, and inserted the board wrong-side-out. Fortunately, I was able to cut off the pins off that board, and the result was a slightly narrower box (a blanket chest).

The following image will give a more complete picture (pardon the pun…) of the complete markings I use on a project — and how I re-mark the boards as I handle them, to ensure I execute the joinery properly:

Marking sides of boards when cutting dovetails

I hope this helps other woodworkers as they use their jigs. And I thank George in South Carolina for asking how I do it.

Now, YOU

What precautions do YOU take to make sure the boards stay oriented properly?

 

Al Navas