March 12, 2010

Fitting the drawers to the stand-up desk

Finally, time to fit the drawers to their respective openings in the front apron of the desk (Edit to add: all hand-cut dovetails, as I am trying to reproduce features of a desk for my client):

Changes in humidity caused the drawer fronts to grow considerably across the grain; I had to wait until things stabilized prior to doing the initial fitting – I am glad I did. Had I not waited, it would have been close to impossible to remove the drawers from the openings without damaging the front apron, as they would been too tight!

As I made progress, things are taking shape. Notice how the grain runs uninterrupted from left to right; this is the result of cutting the drawer front pieces from the same board as the front apron/frame:

The initial fitting is always exciting, as it is an opportunity to aim for the smallest possible reveal around the drawer fronts, while ensuring smooth opening and closing of every drawer. Sharp hand planes are the best way to do it!

The fourth drawer awaits initial fitting now. Construction can then proceed, as moisture content in the wood has stabilized significantly.

— Al Navas

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Related articles: Click this link to read several articles related to the construction of the desk.

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More about an old drawer, and one request

You will remember this old drawer I found in an old chest, in the Old Woodshed store in Intercourse, Pennsylvania:

In that earlier article I requested feedback, as I did not know what this joint is called. I received excellent feedback from several readers (I included links in the earlier article).  Today I received an e-mail from another Al, who read that article, and wrote:

Those pin & crescent half moon joints are actually called Knapp joints.  Charles Knapp of Waterloo Wisconsin patented the machine in 1867 and then sold it to a group of investors that formed a company called the Knapp Dovetail Company of Northampton Mass. The company sold machines to furniture manufacturers for a little over 20 years. The machines were widely used from about 1870 to 1900 until the first machine that cut more traditional looking dovetails came out. I’ve been looking for info on furniture built with Knapp joints because I have a gorgeous solid maple dresser that has them.  However a previous owner replaced all the pulls with really cheap Chippendale style reproductions … I’d like to get back to original looking pulls.  And, I’ve built a pair of nightstands that match the dresser (minus the Knapp Joints – I used traditional dovetails) and need pulls for my drawers.

I regret to say that I did not take any photos of the pulls. However, if you read this, and can provide a good source for the pulls, please let us know – Al needs pulls for his drawers. Thanks!

And my thanks to Al for writing with additional information!

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— Al Navas

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Tutorial: hand-cut half-blind dovetails

Download this video in Quicktime format
(In Windows,  Right-click | Save Link As…)
Duration: 21:41 minutes

One of the readers of the blog recently posted the following Comment to the earlier article on More great drawers:

Could you add ‘Cutting Pins by Hand for Half-Blind Dovetails’ to the list of topics to cover? I fully get how to cut pins and tails for through dovetails, but half-blind pins I can’t seem to wrap my mind around. Is it all chisel work? Is there a sawing technique I don’t know of to cut 80% through the thickness of a board?

Torch, this article and video are my response to your request – perfect timing!

Although today it is considered the hallmark of a woodworking craftsman, the dovetail was not always held in such high esteem. In fact, dovetails used to be buried behind trim, as they were strictly a utilitarian joint; but they were used for their holding strength. Today we make dovetails by hand and with dovetail jigs, to get beautiful results; and they are beautiful!

In this episode I show in detail how to cut one half-blind dovetail on a narrow board. Although I managed to damage the fit on the first attempt, I recovered to shoot the chopping of the pins for this episode in its entirety. In the video I show in high speed the details of chopping the waste, from start to finish:

  1. Very light chiseling at the baseline, to ensure that it stays nice and clean.
  2. Once the baseline is established, more aggressive chopping can take place.
  3. But care must be taken at the half-pins, to prevent splitting of the wood; typically, a narrower chisel, and lighter chisel action are required, or the board will split.
  4. Slight undercutting at the baseline, about 1° to 2°, will result in better and easier fit of the tails in their sockets.
  5. However, too much undercutting will result in a weak joint – as a result, avoid too much undercutting. Practice, practice…
  6. Chop the bulk of the waste with the board supported by the workbench; then place the work piece in the vise, to finish with light paring cuts.
  7. Cut a very small chamfer on the back of the dovetails, to easy entry into their respective sockets in the pins board.

Gary Rogowski is a great advocate of the 5-minute dovetail, a practice session to get ready for the real job of cutting the joinery on a real project. And although the exercise is typically for through dovetails, I believe it applies just as well to half-blind dovetails. In fact, I always do a similar warm-up when I use the Leigh dovetail jig – I never start cutting dovetails cold, regardless the method. Click on this link to see the Inlaid Dovetails Tutorial videos I posted on the blog in March 2008, using the Leigh D4 dovetail jig.

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