May 24, 2012

A shop-made 14° dovetail marker prototype

Until just a few days ago I used the sliding bevel exclusively to mark the dovetail layout on the tails boards. However, yesterday I started thinking about using a marker, and today I executed the idea: Make a prototype 14° dovetail marker.

It is amazing how much quicker I can now mark the tails, and extend the lines to a second board as I get ready to gang-cut:

It took me about 30 minutes to make these, including resawing the small original board. After machining I simply glued the tops to the angle templates using 2P10 adhesive (on the template) and activator (on the tops) – you can release finger pressure in 10 seconds, and it holds. Not bad, if you make prototypes.

So far I am pleased with the results. I still prefer to do the layout using calipers, and then use these markers to complete the layout.

Related links:.

  1. My Aha! moment with hand-cut dovetails
  2. Hand-cut dovetails – all four corners now cut
  3. Hand-cut dovetails – my first results
  4. Cut… stone the saw… cut…
  5. Practice should make perfect: Hand-cut dovetails
  6. New knife from The Czeck Edge

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My Aha! moment with hand-cut dovetails

Aha!

Hand-cut dovetails that fit almost perfectly, right off the saw. Minor paring required on one half pin… One corner completed in 12 minutes.

If this is what everyone talks about, I understand now. In my previous session with hand-cut dovetails I used thinner stock; this is near the thickness I will be using in the Krenov-inspired cabinet, which I will continue at some point in the future. For now, practice to make the best hand-cut dovetailed drawers is a major objective.

Now, lest this last statement leads to some misunderstanding, I must explain: I have never intended to give up my Leigh D4 dovetail jig – it has never been in the cards. As our granddaughter #4 might say, “No way, José”. The D4 is the workhorse when making drawers, dovetailed boxes, and anything else that requires dovetail joinery.

With that clear, I also must explain that I consider small drawers a special item. This is because most dovetail jigs just cannot make the very small dovetails and skinny pins required for the drawers I will need for the Krenov cabinet (Edit to add: The Leigh D4 *can* make needle pins; but I still must learn how to hand-cut the tails properly, to fit the skinny pins). Thus, hand-cut becomes a must.

Back to Aha!

This is where I am. It took me 12 minutes to cut the following – about 2 minutes of paring one of the half-pins, with everything else as it came from the saw:

I left the tails and pins a little proud; then I used the 4-1/2 smoothing plane to bring them all level with the corresponding boards:

Someone suggested I would find it much easier to achieve good results using thinner boards. And they were right!

What is next?

Why, 3-minute, tails-first dovetails, of course. Rob Cosman, watch out!

I have practiced the hand-cut dovetails with quarter-sawn sycamore. Since I will be using cherry and maple for the actual drawers, I will switch at some point to practice some with these woods. The amount wasted is not much, as I remove the practice cuts on the table saw, thus saving an enormous amount of wood.

I believe the practice with the harder woods will be worthwhile, to give me a sense of where to make the cut, relative to the layout lines. This practice is a must, as cherry and maple won’t “give” as much as the sycamore when assembling the joints.

Related links:.

  1. Hand-cut dovetails – all four corners now cut
  2. Hand-cut dovetails – my first results
  3. Cut… stone the saw… cut…
  4. Practice should make perfect: Hand-cut dovetails
  5. New knife from The Czeck Edge

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Cut…stone the saw…cut…

In my previous post I showed the beginning of my journey into hand-cut dovetails. Many of the comments I received addressed the heavy set on the teeth of the new dovetail saw:

Recommendations from experienced hand-tool users addressed one specific solution to reduce the saw set: Stone the saw. Doing this makes it easier to follow a line; and it will also clean up the kerf, and thus leave a much smoother cut.

I took everyone’s recommendations at heart, for I respect the advice of the people who commented and made the suggestion above. Once I got a little time in the shop I prepped some red oak cutoffs and made some test cuts. In between each numbered set of cuts I stoned the saw once on each side with a fine diamond stone, until the cuts were straighter and the kerf looked much cleaner – about dinner time:

Note: The earliest cuts, #1, is on the bottom left, and the most recent ones are at the top-right in the photo above.

For these practice cuts I switched from using dovetail-shaped lines, to straight lines following the grain direction. Based on my experience thus far, my admiration for the craftsmen who can do beautiful hand-cut dovetails has grown exponentially!

I think the dovetail saw needs a little more fine-tuning. As a result, I will have one more session of cut… stone the saw… cut…

In this context, I quote Kari, a.k.a The Village Carpenter, who in January 2008 wrote the following in her blog, addressing stoning the saw:

By stoning, I don’t mean that if your handsaw is misbehaving, you should go all biblical on it. Instead, I mean there is a way to gently persuade it back to the straight and narrow by using your sharpening stones.
– The Village Carpenter, Stoning your Saw, January, 2008

I chuckled about her opening statement… But at the time I did not realize the importance of this technique.

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