Following the initial fit of the drawers, I want to re-visit how I went about making and fitting the divider rib shown in this photo (please bear with me, as I already described this process in an earlier article; however, the drawers were but a twinkle at that time). It is a simple process; and I keep this in mind as I approach making the drawer guides required to keep the drawers in place.
Critical layout using a large framing square is a must, to ensure proper alignment of the tapers on the side aprons with the taper on the divider. Now we can see the divider in the context of the drawer locations:
I suggest using the back of the back apron as the reference surface for the edge of the framing square, for best accuracy.
I made a template using ¼-inch plywood, carefully adjusting the length to the space from the back apron to the front apron. But, most importantly, to ensure proper alignment with the side aprons:
Fine tuning the angles became trivial, using a block plane, measuring, re-measuring, and measuring one more time:
Satisfied with the fit, I used the template to transfer the outline to the piece of quarter-sawn white oak that will become the divider:
Before cutting to the line on the band saw, I measured one more time:
I cut close to the line on the band saw, leaving the line. I then used the Krenov-style hand plane to trim to the line, for final fit:
Why did I use quarter sawn white oak for this divider? For the simple reason that the side aprons are also quarter sawn white oak, and I want the divider to move identically with changes in humidity. This is a design element that should ensure long-term flatness of the top.
But first I must tackle the 61-inch long stretcher between the legs; that will require mortises on the front-to-back stretchers, and tenons on the long stretcher. I will do this later today.
— Al Navas
